HAUTE COUTURE SUMMER 22
“Les enfants qui mentent n’iront pas au Paradis”
A story that repeats itself, like a ribbon destined to wrap itself and then unfold again, each time welcoming different inspirations to narrate, through the clothes, the handcrafted and authentic fairy tale of Haute Couture. This is how Sylvio Giardina presents the new haute couture capsule collection, a project of five creations inspired by the beginnings of his stylistic career and revisited with the eyes of the present.
Almost a “rewind” in the choice and processing of fabrics, as well as the sculptural details typical of the maison which the couturier brings back into vogue in the contemporary world with different shapes, volumes and aesthetic experiments, the result of careful study and research. The avant-garde suggestions of Japanese design, the echo that resounds from the underground culture of the 1980s. “If you think about that period, you usually have a very precise concept – explains Giardina – but in fact there are many other elements of that decade, typical of its cultural movements, taken up by great creatives such as the Spanish Sybilla and the Italian Romeo Gigli. From Rock Barock to artistic currents diametrically opposed to those preserved in our visual memory ».
Flashbacks, evanescent fragments of decomposed and recomposed images, velvet fringes, crumpled tulle, and worked by Florentine artisans following the “Fortuny” technique, are transformed into layered and pleated clouds, evoking the pasty brushstrokes of an unprecedented painting with a three-dimensional effect. An umbrella and the smoke of a freshly lit cigarette grab the attention: the first figure comes from a Sybilla collection, for which the fashion designer created a parapluie with such a unique handle as to give unusual optical perspectives, at times dystopian.
Through the reworking of that detail, Sylvio Giardina reconstructs the decorative element of the shoulder strap, a leitmotiv that returns in three of the looks that make up the 2022 Spring-Summer line.
The second, on the other hand, derives from a photograph by British photographer Nick Knight for a Yohji Yamamoto’s campaign: the portrait of a woman who elegantly smokes a cigarette. A snapshot that leaves its mark on memories, enchanting the designer in one of his most original and iconic pieces.
Asymmetrical silhouettes, pronounced hips in an atypical and innovative dimension that upsets the usual proportions and challenges the rules while respecting the tradition of tailoring and modeling. The female body rotates on itself, changing and evolving to emphasize the beauty that lies behind the imperfection.
Whoever buys a tailored garment must know the processing times, the minutes and hours it takes to make it. They need to know that they are buying a story to wear and not a simple serial product to put in the wardrobe.
I was fascinated by the title of the novel “Les enfants qui mentent n’iront pas au Paradis” by French writer Nicolas Rey, translated as “Children who lie will not go to Heaven”. I want to sin and feel free to create because, through my work, I hope to leave marks, indelible passages among the pages of fashion despite the difficulties caused by the pandemic. I want to have fun and get involved, risking danger. I am not interested in being considered less commercial in the heavenly universe of luxury,” adds the designer who has made high craftsmanship his personal and visionary signature, a truly sophisticated trademark.
Interview and text by Gustavo Marco Cipolla
Art Director TANIA ALINERI
Photographer FLAVIA DANIELE
Stylist VERONICA BERGAMINI
Model ALEXANDRA MOLCHANOVA @fashionartwise
Hair Stylist DOMENICO PAPA @theagencyaldocoppola
Make-Up Artist BEATRICE CONTINO
Video Artist PIERO PERILLI
Soundtrack “DEWED” by TENP
Video Assistant NICOLAS VANEGAS SANCHEZ
Press Office RAFFAELE GRANATO