DW: Aside from your grandfather’s influence, what prompted you to begin a brand that centers “luxury for the nonconformist”?
YL: For as long as I can remember, I’ve never particularly felt like I belonged to any one group. Whether in school, sports, or just growing up, I always felt slightly outside of things. I was never someone who naturally gravitated toward the crowd. If anything, I’d run in the opposite direction because I was so shy growing up (and still kind of am). In that sense, I always identified with my grandfather. He was very much an individual, and I think I unintentionally inherited that mentality. “Luxury for the nonconformist” grew out of that perspective. So many established luxury houses cater to similar audiences, and tell versions of the same story. I wanted to create something that existed outside those expectations without sacrificing the craftsmanship, quality, or the elegance of fine jewelry. I’m drawn to contrasts. I love the refinement of traditional fine jewelry, but I can also appreciate things that are unconventional, exaggerated, and have an edge to them. THIRTY1 is an extension of that, preserving everything beautiful about the luxury of fine jewelry while challenging what luxury is supposed to look like.
DW: How did a childhood in Chios, Greece stoke your desire to design jewelry?
YL: Growing up between Chios and the United States exposed me to two very different ways of life from an early age. In Chios, I spent much of my childhood with my grandparents, surrounded by the freedom and simplicity of life there. I’d come back to the States for school, where life was much more structured, with schedules, rules, and an entirely different sense of independence. Experiencing those two worlds made me aware early on that there isn’t just one way to live, think, or see things. Being exposed to different people, cultures, and perspectives shaped how I approached things before I ever considered designing. I wouldn’t necessarily say Chios inspired me to design jewelry in a literal sense. But, it definitely shaped the way I see things, and that inevitably shaped how I create. I think that freedom to exist between different worlds is reflected in THIRTY1, where traditional and unconventional can coexist.
DW: Are there ways you challenge or push against the tenets set forth by your GIA education in creating these unique pieces?
YL: My GIA education gave me the technical foundation and understanding of diamonds and gemstones, but I’ve never believed that knowledge should be the only thing to dictate design. If anything, it’s given me the confidence to challenge traditional conventions within the space. I think there’s a difference between breaking rules because you don’t understand them and deliberately challenging them because you do. For example whether it’s setting diamonds pavilion up or exaggerating proportions, I like exploring what exists beyond traditional beauty. I have a lot of respect for the history and craftsmanship of fine jewelry, but respecting tradition doesn’t mean being confined by it. For me, it’s about using that knowledge to question conventions and expand on what fine jewelry can be.
DW: Thirty1 covers a great deal of territory in its line—rings, bracelets, pendants, one-of-one vintage. How do you envision the brand expanding?
YL: Chunky rings will always be my first love and a fundamental part of THIRTY1’s identity. At the end of the day, it’s a jewelry house first, and that’s something I intend to preserve. That said, I’ve never viewed creativity as something that needs to exist within a single medium. I’d like to eventually explore furniture, accessories, leather jackets with custom hardware, or even a sick steel toed cowboy boot. Anyone who knows me knows I’m almost always wearing steel toed or platform boots, so that one feels inevitable. Ultimately, whatever I create through THIRTY1 will feel like a natural extension. I never want to expand just for the sake of expanding.